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Lao Airlines has come of age in a distinctly Laotian manner and buses are much better.

The runway has been extended to accommodate larger jets from even farther afield.

Lao Airlines still flies regularly and many like myself – pursuing this elusive Luang Prabang guide – still brave it without a hitch.

The roads are still winding but they are mostly well kept, and banditry is less in evidence.

All buses run from Vientiane through Vang Vieng and range from the eight-hour air-conditioned VIP bus to cheaper local options, which may be a good three hours longer.